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Nepal has set a new record by issuing 494 climbing permits for Mount Everest for the spring season of 2026, exceeding the previous record of 479 permits in 2023, even with the increased fees for foreign climbers now at \$15,000. The standard fee for foreign climbers on the South Col route increased from USD $ 11,000 to USD $15,000 in 2025. This surge, prompted by the closure of the Tibet route, raises significant concerns about safety and overcrowding.

With guides, porters, and other staff, the total number of personnel in the expedition will reach about 1,200. The main summit days are scheduled on 15 and 25 May. 

This Everest climbing season, the legendary climber Kami Rita Sherpa is aiming for his 32nd summit. This 2006 climb could mark the 55-year-old's final attempt on the world's highest peak.

The British climber Kenton Cool is also targeting his 20th summit of Mt Everest in 2026, setting a new non-Sherpa record. He has reached the summit of Mount Everest 19th time in the year 2025.

Similarly, Purnima Shrestha, a Guinness World Record holder for the most Mount Everest ascents in a single season by a woman, is also pushing for her sixth summit in 2026. 

Update: 14 May 2026

The first Everest summit of 2026

A rope fixing team of 14 has reached the Mt Everest summit successfully on Wednesday, ensuring the official opening of the route for hundreds of mountaineers waiting to summit the peak in the coming week. The team reached the summit at 10:25 am, completing the rope-fixing mission for 2026, overcoming various early-season challenges.

Death tool on Everest reached 3

The death toll on Everest reached 3 this spring season with the fatal fall of Phura Gyaljen Sherpa, 21, on Monday night. Phura fell into a crevasse near Camp II and died on the spot. Earlier, another experienced climber and YouTuber, Ghimire Bishwakarma, attempting as the first individual from the Dalit community to reach the summit of Everest, passed away from suspected cardiac arrest in the Khumbu Icefall on May 10. Another climber, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, died on May 4 after falling on his way to Everest Base Camp from the last teahouse settlement of Gorakshep.

Everest Expedition Leaders 2026 arrive at South Col (Camp 4)

6:30 May 8 2026
The nine-member Sherpa team responsible for fixing ropes has finally reached the South Col at 8,000m. The South Col serves as the site for Camp 4, which is the final stop before the summit. With Camp 3 now established and the ropes secured at higher elevations, the route is now accessible for transporting loads and conducting acclimatization rotations. Workers from various other teams are closely following the rope fixers to establish camps for their clients.

Two were injured in the Khumbu Icefall

9:30 May 6 2026
Two were injured in the Khumbu Icefall avalanche when a chunk of ice collapsed into the path, hitting two members. One Nepali guide and an Indian climber were rescued by nearby Sherpas from a partly buried situation and were airlifted to Kathmandu. The incident took place shortly before 6 am when porters and Sherpas carried loads to higher camps to avoid avalanches triggered by the day's heat. However, climate change has made it more challenging. 

Meanwhile, a large team of Sherpas led by the Expedition Operator Association of Nepal has just finished fixing the route to Camp 3 (7,300 m) 

Expedition Teams Rush to Camp I :

5 May 2026

After several weeks of delays, the route through the icefall to the western Cwm is finally open, allowing climbers to move towards Camp I and Camp II. The route was earlier delayed due to a 55-meter-long, 28-meter-high serac that blocked the passage, creating a high-risk area for Icefall Doctors. The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee has released a report detailing recent days and confirmed that the route is open. However, they cautioned: “The area beyond the rockfall point (Section 4) poses significant danger due to a large serac. All climbers and guides must proceed with utmost caution in this section.”

Numerous porters and Sherpas are now rushing through the Khumbu Icefall towards Camp 2 and further. Although there have been some minor incidents and at least one avalanche, everyone remains unharmed.

It takes the Sherpas approximately five hours to travel from Base Camp to Camp 1 and another 4 hours to reach Camp 2 (6065m). 

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A Sherpa dangling above the crevasse was rescued successfully. 

First death in 2026:

Lakpa Tendi Sherpa (51), an experienced climbing guide, died around May 3, 2026, reportedly due to natural causes while trekking towards Base Camp. he was returning to Base Camp to work for the season as a high altitude guide and mountain worker when he lost consciousness and died along the two-mile route between Gorak Shep and Base Camp.

Body Discovered in the Khumbu Icefall:

A body was found in the Khumbu Icefall during routine route management by "icefall doctors" in late April 2026, noted by Alan Arnette and Everest Chronicle. 

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